Upper Dolpo Trek

Your Upper Dolpo adventure starts with a domestic flight from Kathmandu to Nepalgunj, the main gateway to western Nepal. Sit on the right side of the aircraft for the best chance to see the Langtang, Manaslu, and Annapurna mountain ranges before the geography changes into the plains of the Terai.

After landing at Nepalgunj at just 150 m above sea level, you will notice a huge change in climate. The city lies close to the India–Nepal border and is one of the warmest places in Nepal. Daytime temperatures reach 35°C to 40°C during the hotter months. You can spend the rest of the day relaxing at your hotel, checking your trekking equipment, and preparing for the early morning flight to Juphal on the following day.

An early morning flight takes you from Nepalgunj to Juphal, the main air gateway to the Dolpo region. The journey lasts about 25 to 30 minutes on a small twin-propeller aircraft that lands on the mountain airstrip at Juphal. Baggage limits are strict on this route, so you should keep your main duffel within 10 kg and your daypack within 5 kg. After landing, you meet your trekking crew, have lunch, and start the drive toward Dunai.

A 45-minute to 1.5-hour drive on a mountain road beside the Thuli Bheri River brings you to Dunai, the administrative center of Dolpa District. Dunai is the last town with stable electricity, mobile phone coverage, and basic services before you enter the remote areas of Upper Dolpo. Your guide completes the permit registration at the local checkpoint while you have time to rest and prepare for the trek that begins the next day.

After breakfast, you leave Dunai and cross a suspension bridge before following the north bank of the Thulo Bheri River. The trail then turns north into the beautiful Phoksundo (Suli Gad) River Valley, where forests of pine and cedar replace the open valley. A short climb brings you to the Kagmara Viewpoint Ridge (2,499 m), where you can capture the Kagmara Peak. The trek continues through Dhera Village (2,810 m), which is known for its old walnut trees and seasonal grazing land.

From Dhera, you climb to Rahagaon (2,900 m), a Bhotiya village with stone houses and a small Mastha Gompa devoted to the ancient guardian deity of the valley. The route then descends a forest on stone steps before reaching the village of Ankhe (2,896 m).

After leaving Ankhe, you follow the Phoksundo River across blue pine, spruce, and giant bamboo forest. The trail crosses small streams on wooden bridges and continues with frequent climbs and descents through the valley. Some areas are supported by wooden beams that have helped trekkers cross this tough area for many years. Trekking poles can provide extra balance on these narrow passages.

The trail later descends to silver birch and wild rose bushes before reaching Ryajik Village (3,030 m), a settlement surrounded by fields of potatoes and buckwheat. A short walk beside the Phoksundo River takes you to Renje (3,104 m) for an overnight stay.

Today’s trek takes you deeper into Shey Phoksundo National Park as you follow the Phoksundo Khola. After crossing wooden bridges, you reach the point where the Phoksundo Khola joins the Pungmo Khola. From here, the trail climbs up a zigzag path to Polam (3,400 m), a seasonal settlement used by the people of Ringmo. Near the top of the climb, you reach a viewpoint from where you can see 167 m Suligad Waterfall, one of the tallest waterfalls in Nepal.

Beyond the waterfall, the trail is less steep, and you can see the blue water of Shey Phoksundo Lake. Continuing on the lakeshore, you arrive at your teahouse beside the lake. From here, the journey enters the cultural center of Upper Dolpo, where the local language, architecture, and customs are connected to the traditions of the ancient Tibetan Plateau.

Today is an important acclimatization day at Shey Phoksundo Lake. Instead of staying at the teahouse all day, you take a short walk to adjust your body to the higher elevation. A one-hour hike on the eastern shore leads to Thasung Tsho Ling Gompa, an 800-year-old Bon monastery that stands above the lake. While visiting the monastery, remember to walk around the chortens in a counter-clockwise direction to respect local Bon traditions.

After visiting the monastery, you return to Ringmo Village to explore one of the oldest settlements of the Upper Dolpo. Depending on the season, local people may be drying chhurpi made from yak milk, spinning yak wool, or working in fields of barley and buckwheat. This visit gives you a better understanding of the daily life and culture that have been preserved in this Himalayan region for centuries.

The afternoon is free for rest beside the shores of Phoksundo Lake. You can wash a few clothes, dry your equipment in the sun, and organize your backpack before the trek continues toward the higher passes of Upper Dolpo. Drink plenty of water or herbal tea throughout the day because the dry mountain air increases fluid loss. Use sunscreen, sunglasses, and a hat, as sunlight is much stronger at this elevation.

After breakfast, you leave the shores of Shey Phoksundo Lake and start one of the most impressive parts of the Upper Dolpo Trek. The trail climbs a cliff above the western side of the lake, where tall rock walls stand on one side, and the turquoise water lies far below on the other. From the highest viewpoint, you can look back at the entire lake and see Ringmo Village surrounded by cliffs and mountains.

You will then drop through forests of blue pine, birch, and Himalayan willow before reaching the Phoksundo Khola. This peaceful campsite is located deep inside Shey Phoksundo National Park, where there are no permanent villages, mobile networks, or modern facilities. From this point onward, you travel into one of the least-visited parts of the Himalayas.

After leaving your campsite at Phoksundo Khola, you follow the glacial valley toward the north. The trail crosses small channels of the Phoksundo Khola on wooden log bridges before reaching the meeting point of two fast-flowing mountain streams. Here, the valley narrows, and the route enters a rocky gorge. Forests disappear at higher elevations and are replaced by juniper shrubs and alpine grass.

As you continue climbing, the gorge opens into an alpine basin surrounded by cliffs and snow-covered peaks. The landforms become more remote as you approach Phoksundo Bhanjyang, also known as the base camp below Kang La Pass.

Day 9 on the Upper Dolpo Trekking Route starts before sunrise as you leave Phoksundo Bhanjyang for the climb to Kang La Pass. The trail is steep, rocky, and dusty, so walk carefully and follow your guide’s instructions to stay safe. When you reach the top of the pass, colorful prayer flags welcome you to one of the highest points of the trek. From here, you can see Shey Shikkar Peak, Kang Chunnel, and the dry mountain grounds that spread toward the Tibetan Plateau.

After crossing Kang La Pass, you descend into an alpine valley where a glacial river flows toward Shey Gompa. On the way, you may notice ancient meditation caves built on the cliffs as well as herds of yaks, blue sheep, and Chyangra grazing on the high pastures. The red walls of Shey Gompa soon appear beside the valley. This 11th-century monastery is one of the most sacred places in Dolpo and stands near the base of the Crystal Mountain.

Today is another important acclimatization day at Shey Gompa. You start the morning by exploring this monastery, which has been in Upper Dolpo for more than 800 years. Shey Gompa belongs to the Kagyu tradition of Tibetan Buddhism. Inside the monastery, you can see a large golden statue of Shakyamuni Buddha, ancient thangkas, prayer scrolls, and old wall paintings that have been preserved for centuries. This monastery also became well known after writer Peter Matthiessen stayed here while researching his famous book The Snow Leopard.

Later, you can take a short walk to the base of Crystal Mountain (Shey Shelri), the sacred peak behind the monastery. Local people consider this mountain one of the holiest places in Dolpo, and many pilgrims visit to complete a religious circuit around its base. The mountain contains natural quartz veins that gave it the name Crystal Mountain.

Fossils of ancient marine animals have also been found in the rocks, which show that this area was once covered by an ancient sea millions of years ago. The surrounding hills are also home to blue sheep, and these animals attract the rare snow leopard to the area.

After breakfast, you will leave Shey Gompa and follow a trail through juniper shrubs before descending into a mountain canyon. High rock cliffs surround the valley as the route continues toward Saldang La Pass, one of the major crossings on the Upper Dolpo Trek. Colorful prayer flags welcome you at the top of the pass, and from here, you can enjoy dry mountain landforms that extend toward the Tibetan Plateau and the Mustang region.

As you continue, small barley fields appear beside the trail before you arrive at Namduna (Namgung Gaon). The village is situated beneath tall rocks and is home to the Namgung Gompa, an ancient monastery of the Karma Kagyu tradition. You will spend the night in this peaceful settlement today.

You will leave Namduna and climb a short ridge above Namgung Gompa. As you continue on the high trail, you may spot blue sheep on the high rocks and Himalayan griffon vultures circling above the valley. After several hours of walking, the scenery changes as the cultivated land of Saldang appears among the dry brown mountains.

The trail descends toward the Namga Khola before crossing a bridge into Saldang (3,903 m). This is one of the largest settlements in Upper Dolpo and consists of five connected hamlets. Around 600 people live here in traditional stone and mud-brick houses surrounded by fields of barley and buckwheat. For centuries, Saldang has been an important trading center where local villagers exchange goods with markets near the Tibetan border.

After leaving Saldang, you will follow the valley of the Namga Khola toward the north. The trail traverses open gravel plains before reaching the Marang and Ki village. These settlements are built with flat-roofed mud houses that protect families from the strong mountain winds. As you continue, you cross a branch of the Panzang River before heading east toward higher ground.

The route heads uphill after the river crossing as you make your way to Yangtze Gompa (4,960 m). Your campsite is set near Yangtze Gompa, one of the most important Bon monasteries in the region. The monastery has preserved ancient religious texts, artwork, and local healing knowledge for many generations. This location is also one of the highest overnight stops on the 23-Day Upper Dolpo Trek.

You leave Yangtze Gompa after breakfast and descend from one of the highest camps on the trek. The trail follows a high mountain route before turning toward the Saldang region. As you lose elevation, walking becomes more comfortable, and the valleys of Upper Dolpo spread out in every direction. The trail then descends to the banks of the Namga Khola, where you continue alongside the river.

Further along the route, you pass through Namdo, one of the largest villages in Upper Dolpo. Stone houses, terraced fields of buckwheat, and the Namdo Gompa show the rich culture of this remote valley. After leaving the village, you continue beside the Namga Khola until you reach Sibu (4,560 m). This small settlement is surrounded by alpine meadows where local families graze yaks during the warmer months.

After leaving Sibu, you will walk the way beside Nam Khong Khola used by trekkers in the past to travel between Dolpo and the Tibetan border. You may still see groups of yaks carrying goods such as salt, wool, and grain. If you meet a group of yaks on the trail, move to the uphill side and wait for them to pass safely.

After walking for several hours, you reach the point where two rivers come together. From here, the trail turns away from the main valley and heads up toward Jeng La Phedi. As you continue walking higher, you can enjoy beautiful views of the Dhaulagiri massif and the remote beauty of the area. After an hour of climbing, you arrive at a grassy area below Jeng La Pass, where you will spend the night.

You start early from Jeng La Phedi and climb toward Jeng La Pass (5,110 m). The ascent takes about 2 to 3 hours and follows an uphill route with little vegetation. The air is very cold at this height, so you should keep warm clothing and take short breaks when needed. At the top of the pass, you can see prayer flags, stone piles, as well as far-off views of Dhaulagiri I (8,167 m) to the south and the brown hills of Upper Dolpo toward the north.

After spending a short time at the pass, you’ll start the long downtrek toward Tarap Valley. The trail follows gravel paths before reaching the valley floor beside the Tarap Khola. You continue along the Tarap Khola until Tokyu (4,240 m) comes into view. This village consists of small groups of houses surrounded by fields and open grazing land. You can visit the old Tokyu Gompa, located above the village, if you arrive early.

You leave Tokyu and continue beside the Tarap Khola in a wide, mostly flat valley. On the way, you traverse long mani walls made from carved stones with Buddhist and Bon prayers. As you move closer to Dho Tarap, fields of barley, buckwheat, and mustard can be seen near the trail. The packed stone and mud-brick houses of the village soon come into view.

You will reach Dho Tarap around midday and have the afternoon to explore this old settlement. You can visit Shipchhok Dedhen Phuntsokling Monastery, an old Bon monastery with 15 chortens arranged out in the meadow. You can also explore Riwo Bumpa Gompa, where old wall paintings show Bon and Buddhist figures together. Dho Tarap is also home to Bhotiya and Drokpa communities, whose traditional clothing and customs are an important part of local life.

On the 18th day of the Upper Dolpo trek, you’ll leave Dho Tarap and follow the Tarap Khola downstream. After a few hours, the open lands give way to a deep canyon where the Tarap Khola flows between rock walls. You’ll follow the river and cross suspension bridges that connect both sides of the valley.

As you continue toward Serkam, the route heads above the river to avoid the narrow spots of the canyon. You then drop down toward Serkam Camp (3,630 m) beside the Tarap Khola. Near the route, you can see the remains of an old stone fort and a chorten connected to the area’s past as a crossing point between the communities of Dolpo and Tibet.

You will leave Serkam and follow the Tarap Khola for the rest of your day’s journey. The way is rough in places, with rocks and stone steps, and you go up and down several times. You will cross the Sishul Khola by a hanging bridge and then keep walking beside the river.

After going down to about 3,400 m, you start seeing more trees. The dry and bare hills you have been seeing in Upper Dolpo slowly disappear, and green hills start to appear instead. After spending days among dry hills and open land, the trees of pine, spruce, cedar, and bamboo make the place feel fresh and very different.

You’ll continue walking among the trees until you reach Khanigaun. It is a small village next to the Tarap Khola, with green hills all around it. You can stay by the river for the night, take some time to rest, and enjoy the peaceful environment. From here, you are getting closer to the end of your Upper Dolpo journey.

After having breakfast, you’ll leave Khanigaun and walk inside the pine and cedar forests toward Lalberi Village. The path goes down through the trees and crosses a few small streams on wooden bridges and flat stones. After about two hours, the trees spread out, and farm fields start to appear around Lalberi. You can see fields of barley and buckwheat in the hilly areas.

From Lalberi, you’ll trek farther down toward the Thuli Bheri River until you reach Tarakot (2,537 m). The village is located above the meeting point of the Tarap Khola and the Thuli Bheri River. Tarakot is also known by the local name Dzong, which means “fort” in Tibetan. In the past, it was the main fortified settlement of the Tichurong Kingdom and an important place for traders who moved salt and grain between Tibet and the lower valleys of Dolpo.

You leave Tarakot after breakfast and walk down to the Thuli Bheri River. You’ll cross small streams on wooden bridges and pass old water mills that local farmers use to grind corn and barley. Farther ahead, you walk below the terraced fields of Lawan and Byasgaon. You may see local families working in their fields or taking care of cattle on the way.

The walk becomes easier as you continue toward Dunai. The route stays close to the Thuli Bheri River and passes small forests and high rock walls before the houses of Dunai appear ahead. You cross the main suspension bridge over the river and enter the district headquarters of Dolpa. After many days in remote mountain villages, Dunai gives you a chance to enjoy comforts such as a hot shower, a proper bed, and a warm meal. Your guide also completes the required exit check at the local police post before you settle in for the night.

Today you will leave Dunai after breakfast and follow the Thuli Bheri River toward Juphal. The first part of the walk is easy as the path stays close to the river and traverses small farms, suspension bridges, local tea shops, and villages such as Roopghar and Kalagaon. After a few hours, you’ll cross a suspension bridge over the Thuli Bheri River and leave the river behind.

The last part of the walk takes you uphill toward Juphal. After more than 200 km on foot, reaching Juphal marks the end of your trek. You spend the final night at a local lodge near the airstrip and enjoy a farewell dinner with your guide and porters. It is a good time to thank the people who helped you cross the high passes Upper Dolpo.

The final day of the Upper Dolpo Trek begins with a walk to Juphal Airstrip for your flight to Nepalgunj. The flight takes about 25 to 30 minutes and takes you back to the western valleys of Nepal. As the aircraft leaves the mountains behind, you can take one last look at the hills and peaks of Dolpo before reaching the Terai plains. After landing in Nepalgunj, the warm and humid air feels very different from the cold mountain climate you have experienced for the past three weeks.

After a short wait at Nepalgunj Airport, you board your flight to Kathmandu. The journey takes about 50 to 60 minutes and takes you east toward the capital. Once you land at Tribhuvan International Airport, your 23-day Upper Dolpo Trek officially comes to an end. You can then return to your hotel and take some time to rest after one of the most remote trekking journeys in Nepal.